Water Softeners & Filters

Control valves, regeneration, brine tanks and reverse-osmosis systems.

2 field manuals · 19 error codes · 16 diagnostic guides · 4 brands

Field service manuals

Field manual · Water Softener

Control-valve water softeners (Fleck, Clack, big-box units): field service manual

Single-tank ion-exchange softeners with an electronic control valve (Fleck 5600/7000, Clack WS1, Whirlpool/GE/Morton cabinet units). Kinetico twin-tank units are non-electric (water-meter driven) and Culligan units are usually dealer-serviced.

7 components4 common failuresFleck (Pentair), Clack, Whirlpool, GE, Morton, Culligan, Kinetico

Field manual · Water Softener

Under-sink reverse osmosis systems: field service manual

Residential under-sink RO units with a pressurized storage tank (typical 4-5 stage)

5 components4 common failuresAll

Diagnostic guides

Guide · Water Softener

Water tastes salty after the softener regenerates

Softened water should not taste salty. A salty taste means brine was not fully drawn and rinsed out of the resin: clogged injector or brine line, restricted drain line or drain flow control, low supply pressure during regeneration, or a regeneration interrupted by a power or pressure loss.

5 steps ~60 minmoderate

Guide · Water Softener

Water softener uses too much salt or regenerates every night

Excess salt use is almost always a settings problem: hardness programmed too high, a timer set to regenerate every day, wrong capacity or salt dose for the household, or a lost program. Mechanical causes include a leaking brine valve, iron-fouled resin and a brine tank that overfills.

4 steps ~40 mineasy

Guide · Water Softener

Softener regenerates at the wrong time (often after a power outage)

Most timer and metered controls schedule regeneration by the clock, typically in the middle of the night. After an outage the clock can be wrong or reset, so regenerations happen when people are using water. The softener still softens, but the clock and settings need checking.

4 steps ~20 mineasy

Guide · Water Softener

Orange/rust stains even with a working softener

Softeners handle hardness well but have limited ability to remove iron, especially iron that has already oxidized. Iron coats the resin, cuts capacity and passes through to stain fixtures. Test the water before recommending an iron filter or resin cleaning.

4 steps ~40 minmoderate

Install · Water Softener

Water softener install with bypass valve

Install the softener after the main shutoff (and usually before the water heater) with a bypass valve so water can run while the unit is serviced. Run the valve drain to an approved drain with an air gap, run the brine-tank overflow separately by gravity, and never join the two.

6 steps ~240 minadvanced

Install · Water Softener

Reverse osmosis (RO) under-sink install

An RO system needs a cold-water feed, a drain saddle on the sink drain above the trap (away from the disposal), a dedicated faucet (often an air-gap faucet where code requires) and the storage tank. Flush the system per the instructions before drinking.

5 steps ~120 minmoderate

Guide · Water Softener

Hard water returning (softener has salt but water is hard)

Most hard-water callbacks come from salt that is not reaching the water (bridge or mush), wrong settings, or a regeneration that is not drawing brine. Check the brine tank first, then programming, then the valve.

5 steps ~45 mineasy

Guide · Water Softener

Softener not regenerating

A softener that never regenerates usually has a drive problem (motor, gears, stuck piston), a programming problem, or a meter that is not counting. Error codes on Fleck and Clack valves point straight to the drive.

5 steps ~60 minmoderate

Guide · Water Softener

Brine tank overflowing or holding too much water

Excess brine water means the valve refills but does not draw brine out, or the refill does not stop. Typical causes are a plugged injector or screen, a kinked or scaled brine line, a stuck float, or internal valve leakage.

4 steps ~60 minmoderate

Guide · Water Softener

Salt level not going down

If salt is not used, either the unit is not regenerating, the salt is not dissolving (bridge), or brine is not being drawn. Rule out a bridge first because it is the quickest fix.

3 steps ~30 mineasy

Guide · Water Softener

Low water pressure after the softener

Pressure loss across a softener usually comes from a clogged pre-filter, fouled or broken-down resin, resin escaping into lines, or a valve stuck partly in a regeneration position. Bypassing the unit isolates it quickly.

4 steps ~45 minmoderate

Guide · Water Softener

Resin beads in faucets, aerators or toilet tanks

Beads in the plumbing almost always mean a cracked or loose distributor/riser tube or bottom basket in the resin tank. Very old resin can also break into fines that pass the screens.

4 steps ~120 minadvanced

Guide · Water Softener

Leaking bypass valve or valve-to-plumbing connection

Bypass leaks are usually worn O-rings in the bypass body or yoke connection, a cracked plastic bypass, or strain from misaligned plumbing. Repair is O-ring replacement or bypass replacement.

3 steps ~30 mineasy

Guide · Water Softener

RO system: slow flow or no water at the faucet

Slow RO water comes from a low tank air charge or failed bladder, clogged pre-filters, a fouled membrane, low feed pressure, or a clogged post-filter. A timed flow test splits filter/pressure problems from membrane problems.

4 steps ~45 minmoderate

Guide · Water Softener

RO storage tank: checking and setting the air pre-charge

The tank pushes water out using an air charge behind a diaphragm. The charge must be read and set only with the tank empty of water.

3 steps ~20 mineasy

Guide · Water Softener

RO system will not shut off (water always running to drain)

The auto shut-off (ASO) valve closes when tank pressure reaches about two-thirds of feed pressure. If the tank never gets there, or the check valve leaks back, the system keeps running to drain.

4 steps ~40 minmoderate

Clack · 5 codes

Clack · Water Softener

106

Alternator (MAV) motor ran too long

The second motor that drives the alternator or bypass valve ran too long and did not find its park position.

Single source

Clack · Water Softener

1001 (older boards: 101)

No motor movement sensed

The board energized the motor but its optical sensor saw no movement, so it could not detect the start of the regeneration.

Cross-checked

Clack · Water Softener

1002 (older boards: 102)

Motor stalled before next position

The motor ran too short: it stalled before the valve reached the next cycle position.

Cross-checked

Clack · Water Softener

1003 (older boards: 103)

Motor ran too long

The motor ran past its time limit without finding the next cycle position.

Cross-checked

Clack · Water Softener

1004 (older boards: 104)

Cannot find home position

The valve could not find its home (service) position during a regeneration or after a control reset.

Single source