GE JP5030 (touch) / GE Profile PP7030 (knob) 30-inch radiant electric cooktop: quick sheet

Covers: GE 30-inch built-in radiant glass cooktops: JP5030 with front touch (glide) controls and four elements (JP5030SJSS stainless, JP5030DJBB black, JP5030DJWW white; discontinued per retailers) and GE Profile PP7030 with front knobs and five elements (PP7030SJSS, PP7030DJBB, PP7030DJWW, PP7030BMTS). Approx. 2014 onward. Related JP3030 (knobs, entry) and PP9030 (touch, Profile) share many parts; confirm by model.

Cross-checkedBrands: GE, GE Profile7 components

Common GE drop-in radiant cooktops on 240/208 V, 40 A circuits. JP5030 uses a touch control board and relays with two 7 in. "SyncBurner" elements that can be joined for a griddle and a 3,100 W power boil element; PP7030 uses infinite switches behind knobs with five elements including a 3,100 W center power boil and a dual 8/5 in. element. Typical repairs: element open, infinite switch stuck on, touch board or relay failure, and cracked glass.

Safety first

240 V: breaker off before lifting the cooktop.
Element on with no command: kill the breaker immediately.
Do not use a cracked glass top.

How it works

Supply: 240/208 V, 40 A (two listings each). A junction box under the counter feeds the cooktop's armored cable.

PP7030 (knob): each knob turns an infinite switch that cycles its element on and off; dual elements use a switch with an extra contact for the outer ring. A hot-surface light stays on while the glass is hot.

JP5030 (touch): the touch board reads glide/keypad input and switches elements through relays; the left SyncBurners can run together. A control lock function disables the keys. If a fault code appears, follow the troubleshooting section of the GE owner manual for the model (GE literature lookup), then a breaker reset; a code that returns means a control or element fault.

Radiant elements have a built-in limiter that cycles the element off if the glass gets too hot; that cycling is normal and is not a failure.

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Official manufacturer documentation

Always confirm values against the tech sheet for the exact model.

OnCall Tech is a reference tool for trained technicians and can make mistakes. Always disconnect power and confirm with the manufacturer's documentation before you work. © 2026 OnCall Tech. Original content; not a reproduction of any manufacturer document.Generic part photos (not of this brand): Large stainless refrigerator set flush between kitchen cabinets by Alex Qian, Pexels License

Diagnostic guides for this appliance

Guide · Range / Oven

Electric range trips the breaker or blows a fuse

Use the timing of the trip to split the problem. A trip at power-up, with every control off, points to the supply cord, terminal block, internal wiring or the breaker itself. A trip only when one element or mode is turned on points to that element (usually shorted to its sheath) or its switch and wiring. Rule out a weak or undersized breaker last, after the range itself tests clean.

8 steps ~60 minmoderate

Guide · Range / Oven

Electric range partly works: display on, oven or big elements won't heat

An electric range runs its electronics and lights on 120 V (one hot leg to neutral) but heats with 240 V across both legs. If one leg is lost, the range looks alive but cannot heat properly. Typical causes are half of the double-pole breaker tripped or failed, a burned terminal block or cord connection, or a damaged receptacle. A building on 208 V will heat, just more slowly.

7 steps ~45 minmoderate

Guide · Range / Oven

Oven keeps heating when turned off or overheats past setpoint

This is a fire hazard: turn the breaker off first, then diagnose. On electronic controls the usual cause is a relay on the control board whose contacts have welded closed. On dial ovens it is a stuck thermostat or selector contact. Less often a shorted sensor or harness is to blame. On gas ovens, a burner that won't shut off is a gas-valve problem and goes to a licensed gas technician.

7 steps ~60 minadvanced

Other ranges & ovens manuals

Manual · Range / Oven

GE JGBS66 / JGB735 30-inch freestanding gas range: quick sheet

GE 30-inch freestanding gas ranges with electronic touch oven control and 120 V supply: JGBS66 (and the lower JGBS60/JGBS61 family) with an under-oven broiler drawer and steam clean, and JGB735 (plus the JGB635/JGB645/JGB660 family) with an in-oven broil burner and self-clean. JGB735 adds a rear convection fan and No Preheat Air Fry. Finish/revision suffixes vary (SS, BB, WW, ES, DS and revision digits); confirm features against the rating label. Electrical and ignition side only: every gas-carrying part is blocked.

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Whirlpool WFG505M0B / WFG525S0J 30-inch freestanding gas range: quick sheet

Whirlpool 30-inch freestanding gas ranges with electronic touch oven control on the backguard and 120 V supply: WFG505M0B (5.1 cu. ft., under-oven broiler drawer, manual clean; revisions such as BS0/BS1/BS2, BW, BB and the later WFG505M0M) and WFG525S0J (5.0 cu. ft., in-oven top broil, self-clean; suffixes such as JS, JB, JW, JT, JV, JZ). Siblings WFG320 and WFG515 are built on similar chassis but check the ignition type per model (see overview). Electrical and ignition side only: every gas-carrying part is blocked.

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Manual · Range / Oven

Frigidaire FCRG3052A and Gallery FGGF3036T/FGGF3059 30-inch gas ranges (electrical and ignition side): quick sheet

Frigidaire 30-inch freestanding gas ranges: FCRG3052A (AS/AB/AW, later FCRG3052B revisions; manual clean, no self-clean, storage drawer) and Gallery FGGF3036T (self-clean plus steam clean, convection fan) and FGGF3059T (Gallery, True Convection, self-clean plus steam clean). Electrical, ignition and control side only; every gas-carrying part is blocked. All listed models are discontinued and were sold roughly 2015-2021; match the full model and suffix on the rating plate (under the cooktop or on the storage drawer frame) before ordering parts.

10 components8 common failuresFrigidaire